Chairman’s Report
Secretary’s Report
Treasurer’s Report
Catamaran Stability
Headsails
Forebeam
Letters
Chairman - Ken Pack
Secretary - Sue Keeler
Treasurer - Thelma Pack
It is obviously ideal that the Newsletter contains mainly your letters and concerns through me to one another. I would be so grateful to have your comments and opinions on these letters. It invariably ends up with my limited prejudices. You have noticed my pet fixation is balance, having convinced Thelma she wants to come out, it is difficult to say "your weight would be better distributed in front of the sink rather than further aft in the cockpit!"
Pity about the AGM but it is not satisfactory to have only 9 members present. It seems the London Boat Show has lost its magic for cat owners and gives us an opportunity to try a similar date of the Southampton Boat Show which has a section specifically for us. So put 12/9/1992 in your diary at The Star Hotel, High Street, Southampton 7pm for 7.30pm.
When we took over from Stuart 3 years ago, for many reasons things had got a bit out of hand but we were widely represented. Matters are now very healthy but in a limited way and the limitation is me and I hope someone younger will take over. There is now need for greater emphasis on meets, racing and generally doing our own thing.
Following PBO’s excellent article on stability reprinted in our last Newsletter, I thought the technically barren report of a roughly 10 year old incident only formed very poor drama. At the time of happening these incidents are taken very seriously by designers and new boats reflect the lessons learnt. The changes are a warning to older boat owners to be prudent (e.g. narrow beam equals early reefing). Subsequently, improved equipment abounds with better weather reporters or parachute anchoring etc. I would recommend the authentic Fastnet reports or the like are more useful to evaluate improvements, not the PBO article February, 1992.
No, you were not going blind last Newsletter, we have had some patchy patches. The reduction to A5 keeps down postage and we value our overseas members input. Hopefully the new photocopier will improve matters.
Your various information has enabled us to put together a more accurate and up to date Register and a new one will be with you soon. Brian and I are now involved with the Rye Chandlery named Sandrock Marine, Rock Channel, Rye, Sussex. We will provide a Visitor’s Mooring and allow a l0%. discount to MOCRA members. Tel Rye (0797)2226.
The increase of subscriptions to £6.50 has enabled us to keep up with postage and maintain the general level for a satisfactory position.
As you know, I have good reasons for an interest in this subject, having capsized and lost my MkI in a Channel gale in 1969. I vowed that it would never happen again and to date, touch wood, my MkII has over 50,000 miles on the clock, without at any time being near to capsize.This letter is prompted by your Winter 1991 IOA newsletter which contained copies of letters between you and James Wharram, and the reproduction of his article from PBO.
Surely what a catamaran owner wants to know is the conditions in which his own boat would be likely to capsize, and what in detail he should do to avoid it. In your letter you say that to produce such information in an educational manner or for instant reference …is a mammoth and time consuming task. May I respectfully disagree? In 1972 my efforts to do this for my MkII appeared in the IOA newsletter. This dealt with catamaran stability, which is the main, but not the only aspect of capsize. The basis of my calculations was the same as that used by Wharram and Boon in PBO and I applied the results to produce an instant reference showing what sail I should set in wind strengths from the top of Force 3 to Force 12. All the information is on one side of a sheet of paper. Having used this for the past 20 years with success suggests that it may have some merit. The following comments came to mind after reading the article by Wharram and Boon:
I firmly believe that capsizes are preventable if one is willing to learn the rules of the game. Some years ago were on the boat in a marina in Guadaloupe, and just before Christmas we were warned of an approaching hurricane. Fortunately it passed 200 miles to the north, but it had caught a fleet of ocean racing multihulls. Some suffered damage and mast loss, but none overturned, and no one was lost. This suggests that capsizes are preventable in extreme conditions and that cats are seaworthy vessels in the hands of experienced skippers and crews. So, in summary, I would urge all owners to become actively interested in the subject and avoid my own error of having to learn the hard way. Even now I admit that when the wind is force 9 or higher I have to work hard mentally to convince myself that reasoned judgement is superior to emotional responses.
To end, with hindsight, on some humour, we (my wife and I ) sat out at
anchor(s) on a lee shore (Uraguay) a Force 14. The problem changed from
that of possible capsize to the fear of becoming airborne and landing in
the nearby trees.
Reg Crampton
Dear Reg,
Thank you so much for your letter on Catamaran Stability, it goes so much to the heart of the matter and although you could not have known, forms a most constructive criticism to the efforts I am making on behalf of IOA at MOCRA’s Safety Committee.
Before I was so closely involved I read the various reports of such bodies and uncharitably wished them well enough in their efforts but really believed they were either trying to sell their brand of multihull or on an ego trip.
How wrong I was, particularly in respect of the dedicated group of people, designers and owners trying hard to sieve the wheat from the chaff. They are generally multihull users, not technically expert, but personally aware of the shortcomings of the particular brand they had put their shirt on. Once you have placed your bet you are bound to cheer on your choice. This I find leads to a well informed discussion on the pro’s and con’s of the different marques.
Add to this the Common Market regulatory issue and it became obvious to me we needed an instrument that was applicable to the various boats, that would describe to each skipper a commonly accepted minimum sail setting for any given wind. It is unlikely to be much use to someone with your experience. It is really aimed at those people newly out in mutihulls or changing from one to another or wishing to compare this stability situation between boats.
Enclosed is a photostat of the stage I have reached. It is really only a different format of what you have been using and I would love to say it was the best answer since brown bread. Unfortunately it really only represents a static condition but I am happy up to that point.
Extending from a static to dynamic description has to embrace the skippers expertise and some realistic safety factor the old 0.6 is a bit baggy and 0.816 is now more readily accepted but at the end of the day as you say, it must embrace some advice on the high speed running and bow burying problem.
Out of interest, did you calculate the Static Stability (Fig 6b) of Catamaran B in Wharram’s article? I found it to be more or less the same as Catamaran A, but if you make the point you are likely to throw the baby out with the bath water.
Yours sincerely,
Ken
One snag with the Iroquois is that Mc.D. designed a suit of sails (very good they were too) but most of us have opted for roller reefing. In common with many other owners I bought an early Rotostay and had all the sails modified. The gear was adequate for furling but the UV strip and poor shaping meant as soon as any reefing was attempted the sail went into an unlovely bag. "You need a new proper sail sir, one designed to go through the range from 180% down to No. 2. With dacron it’s no problem". This gentleman later explained it didn’t work as Rotostay had discovered the errors of their ways and produced Mark 2.
I bought Mark 2 but of course "You need to modify your sail sir". The 180% was well over the top and after several fights on the foredeck I decided to give it best. There was, of course, no way of dealing with it through that range. At this stage it was time to have a new look. I tried an inner foresail of 60 sq.ft. - the difference between 150% and 180%. Easier to handle, moved the centre of effort forward, improved the slot flow and would sheet through the shrouds. Tension on the baby stay etc. was difficult and limited the use to Force 3 but by then the 150% would do well.
Now I need the best 150% possible, Ivan Bole and Mike Green of Arun Sails prescribed the following (refer to attached diagram - Webmaster):
The foot and leech will be parallel as will the sheeting angle. The 100% sheeting angle comes to the coach roof dead eye in my case and only about 110% can be handled on the sheeting track and that is the 160 sq. ft. area of the old No.1 jib with an almost identical centre of effort.
That is the theory - wait for the next thrilling installment.
Dear Ken,
Nice to hear from you, and to know that you are slumming it in good company at Monte.
I was interested in hearing of your ideas, and since receiving your letter earlier this week, I have taken the opportunity to study the three Iroquois and two Comanches in my area in order to look at their forestay beam arrangement, and all of them have a fitted pulpit welded to the main forestay beam, which incorporates an inverted ‘V’ strut, which caters as a form of ‘Seagull striker’ to take the pull of the forestay. I take it from your letter therefore that it must be the earlier models, without pulpits that are suffering the problems that you describe, i.e. distortion and corrosion.
To replace the full length of the forestay beam would entail severe cutting of the actual hulls in order to break out the alloy beam, and could not be justified. I would suggest therefore that if it does become necessary to replace a beam, that the beam be cut cleanly some 6" away from the inboard face of the hull both sides, a replacement identical diameter tube be cut to a tight fit between the remaining stubs, and two 12" sleeves of sufficient diameter to slide tightly over the replacement tube be positioned over the cut ends and pop riveted to the replacement beam, and original stubs.
This could also be the time to deal with distortion or deflection of the forestay beam. When fastening the sleeves over the cut end of the original beam, the end over the original stub could be drilled to take an eye bolt vertically through the beam either side, from which a Stay can be taken over a ‘Seagull striker’ for the full width of the forward beam, using a bottle screw for tensioning.
Care must be taken over the width of the feet of the striker in order to allow sufficient room for the furling drum of a foresail furling gear if fitted. While the striker can be fitted vertically - which also provides a very suitable mounting for the bicolour steaming light, the forestay tang must be angled to make a fair pull, in line with the forestay (see attached sketch).
The strongest type of forestay tang is an interna1 part sleeve, to which a tang is strongly welded, positioned internally at the mid point so that the tang can project through a slot in the beam, the whole being located by pop rivets. A bit of a job to locate it initially, but can be done whilst off the boat.
I hope that the forgoing comments help you to solve your problems with the older boats, but if I can be of further help, or if you have an actual example of an older boat around you would like me to look at, please get in touch.
Yours sincerely,
Chris Hammond
Dear Chris
Thank you so very much for your help on the cross beam. I do apologise for my tardy reply but I wrote a super objective reply and have been looking for it ever since. I will now try to repeat the performance.
It is the Mark 2 (and at sometime in the future the Comanche) that also has the problem. As you say, they have a pulpit and very good it is but I do not believe it was envisaged as a structural element. The two wing struts are small diameter and the top rail would not produce anything. There are two other problems:
Your design deals with both these problems and I particularly like the internal plate to receive the forestay fitting. Hopefully the end design will be capable of being a seagull striker, cross beam, wire and adjuster and 2 sleeves with the necessary bolts as a supplied kit, which could have the light and pulpit bracketed off.
I am not sure whether your sketch intended two bolts at each end, one to locate the sleeve to the old stub ends and one to bolt through the new mast section and sleeve. If so the latter could receive the tensioning stress from the wire without pulling on the hulls. On this point, would an adjusting U bracket atop the seagull striker be preferable to a bottle screw adjustment?
Finally, keeping water out of this seems an improbability, would it therefore be sensible to clean and foam fill the stubs in the hull and then intentionally drain the new section.
Yours sincerely,
Ken
Dear Ken,
The problems that you outline in your second letter concerning the forestay spar could be dealt with relatively easily when fitting the replacement unit.
(If the replacement sear is marine grade alloy, I do not think it is necessary to fill it with foam, as it should drain through the joints within the sleeves).
Very interested to hear about the TVR, long may you enjoy your ‘Sunday afternoon’ transport. Anyway, you join an elite club, so far this year one of my friends has bought a catamaran instead of his Southerly after sailing with me, another has bought a flat with a sea view after visiting me, and now you have a fibreglass car, congratulations.
Let me know if I can be of further help,
Yours sincerely,
Chris Hammond
Dear Ken
You will find enclosed $14 US for my 1992 membership. I have also enclosed a 1990 list of Iroquois owners from southeastern USA.
During 1990-91 Nancy and I lived on SAM for 10 months while we circumnavigated the eastern US. In September ‘90 we had the boat trucked from our home port at Duluth, Minnesota on Lake Superior to the Mississippi River near St. Paul, Minnesota. We went down the Mississippi to the Ohio River, up the Ohio 50 miles to the Tennessee River, south up the Tennessee to the Ten-Tom waterway, then down the Tombigbee and Mobile rivers to Mobil Bay on the Gulf of Mexico.
We coastal cruised the Gulf to Maples Florida, then crossed the Gulf to the Dry Tortugas (75 miles west of Key West). Thence to Key Vest and the Florida Keys. Across to the Bahamas for two months, then up the East coast on the Intrcoastal Waterway to New York City. Up the Hudson River to the Erie Canal, Erie Canal to Lake Ontario, across Ontario to Canada and the Trent-Severn Canal to Georgian Bay on Lake Huron. Across Huron to Lake Superior, then back home to Duluth at the extreme west end of Lake Superior.
During this trip we traveled 7000 miles and traversed 118 locks. While on the Gulf of Mexico, the Florida Keys and in the Bahamas we mostly sailed. However, the rest of the trip was on rivers and waterways and opportunities to sail were few. SAM motors quite easily at 5.5 knots with the 9.9 HP Yamaha.
In the Bahamas, we had the opportunity to cruise in company with a Gemini 3000 cat for three weeks. It had more sail area but was heavier and had fatter hulls so we were usually about the same speed. The Gemini however hobbyhorsed noticeably in any kind of a seaway and the quality of its construction was not up to Iroquois standards. The owner has since put it up for sale because of those two faults.
Sincerely,
Lyle G Burke, SAM, Mk Iia, #289
Following more questions Lyle replies:
We will be confining our cruising to Lake Superior for 1992. This lake is so big and the north and east shores are so wild and unpopulated that one can go for days without seeing another boat. We have cruised the Lake since 1980 and there are still areas we want to explore. With its clear, pure, freshwater and its vast area, Lake Superior would be crowded with boats if it wasn’t for two basic drawbacks; a three month season (die-hards push it to four months) and very cold water (it rarely gets above 50 deg. Fahrenheit).
Fair winds,
Lyle
Dear Ken
Enclosed is a cheque for £6.50. Also enclosed is a stamped addressed envelope for address, please, of Para Anchors International. I was interested in your report of their anchors and would like to purchase the size most suitable for the Iroquois - which one do you recommend?
As regards my own boat, you might recall I was disappointed in her light airs performance. To rectify this I am having the diesel removed and have asked the boat builder to investigate an interior outboard (i.e. situated in the cockpit, along the lines of the Hirondelle outboard well). I will let you know how this turns out. On the other hand if there are reasons against doing this, please tell me!
Last request is on the subject of outboard motors. Is a single AEMUL
Yamaha 9.9 (which seems to be widely praised) an engine which you would
recommend for 1.6 Iroquois? Have I read somewhere that they are subject to
corrosion? If not this engine, what is currently the best for the job?
John B ???
Dear John
Thank you for your letter and I enclose a copy of Para Anchors blurb. They are a most professional firm and in their handout manual list an experience of Rudolph Kirse sailing "Banana Split Mark 2" and I send you his detail. I have no experience of the parachute anchor but it is obviously an extension of the trailing warps theory. My limited experience of this led me to think the amount of drag induced may be more than the snatch the cleats could resist.
Your engine proposals sound the right way to go. You do not say where your diesel engine is located but if it’s aft a waterline check will tell you whether the boat is being sailed uphill. I don’t have a Yamaha yet but the only criticism I have heard from Rod Blake is that it was well loaded in a strong blow. It is certainly quiet, economic and smooth and I would mount it on my outboard bracket to get the best effect from steering it. The box idea is neater and reduces possible cavitation but conversely may saturate in a bridge deck slam or scooping up on a fast down wind run. The Hirondelle and Maldives are more purpose built I think.
Please let me know how it all goes.
All the best for 1992 season.
Ken
Dear Ken,
Thank you for your letter inviting me back into the fold. Maybe I owe you money, in the past I have always checked up and paid up at the AGM.
There are two Sea Squaws:
Both boats met in Belle Isle in July this year - a chance meeting with No. 98 catching fire in the sun. A glass was left on the cockpit seat it melted the gel coat, produced flames and was quickly extinguished. Because of mud etc. I did not get aboard. No. 98 has sailed to Turkey and had 2 years in the Med. - its French owner now keeps her in Lorient in the very big Marina outside the town on the left as you go in after passing the Island. (Unseaman-like directions). Sea Squaw went back to Brittany with me again this year - weather was not kind till we got almost to Biscay but I had an excellent geriatric gourmet cruise. Mostly two of us total crew age never less than 141 years.
Oh to note Sea Squaw No. 98 was ‘Admode’ previously at launch
- I changed the name when I finished it off. Thank you for contacting me I
will see you afloat or at the AGM if you hold it.
Very kind regards,
David Asdell
(Note) Never drain your glass the liquid will put out the fire - what a thought.
Dear Mr Pack,
It is a long time since I have been in contact with the Association. I am still sailing my Catena, No.70. The first of the Mk II’s and she is still going strong. Over the years I have replaced the leeboards. One snapped off level with the hull. I had reinforced the fore and aft edges of the slot with several layers of glassfibre as recommended by Reg White and have no signs of stress in this area. The rudders slowly disintegrated so I had a Greek carpenter make me up a pair of beefed up ones following the same shape but cutting a foot off the bottom and making the blade fixed. This has made no apparent difference to the steering and, while not being able to take the ground, this doesn’t matter so much where the land is steep-to in Greece and Turkey. I can usually put my bows on the shore with 3 or 4 feet under the rudders. Two years ago I renewed the mast and installed a roller-reefing main and a new roller-reefing jib and all new standing rigging. I now feel safe that nothing is going to break over my head. The rigging was by Sailcraft with a continuous line reefing and a loose-footed main from Dolphin Sails of Harwich. I am delighted with both and regularly register a steady 7 knots average going up to 10 - 11 in the gusts, although by that time I am reefing down.
What I do find is that I sail a lot more efficiently as I can reduce sail, and what is more increase sail, in a matter of seconds. No longer creeping along the cabin roof, easing of reefing lines, and winching up halyards. Cast off a line, heave in or ease off a line, make up. Tremendous! This, coupled with an Autohelm 2000 makes for easy handling but also fast passagemaking. My Mariner 25 gives me a steady 6 knots in calms but alas cavitates in some of the short confused seas we sometimes get in the Aegean, but has always proved reliable.
I have a five-man Avon which normally sits upside down on the trampoline which, although a little large, is a great load carrier when you have to go searching for petrol and water. No marinas in the Greek islands! I am getting a new Mariner 4 this year and returning my Johnson 6 which is over 10 years old and has had to be rescued from the sea after being immersed for 12 hours one year!
I have made very few alterations to the internal arrangements as I find them practical and well designed. I have replaced the wet locker (who needs it?) with a bookcase, covered with a cockpit table top. I have built a locker across the rear of the cockpit which holds the main petrol tank and two spare 20 litre petrol cans which, if they leak, drain directly into the cockpit drains. This also gives extra seating. The floor of the cockpit has a plywood floor with four threaded brass fittings into which are threaded the four legs for the cockpit table. Although the table has a slight "whip" it is very stable. I removed the cabin doors as I always felt they limited the seating and installed sliding panels which live permanently under the fore-berth when I am aboard. You don’t have to lock your boat up in Greece and Turkey - unless there are tourists about! The cabin table I dropped to the bed position and installed a top-opening refrigerator which runs for a month on a bottle of camping gas but can also run on the battery or 240 volt shore line (rare). This ensures we always have cold beer and tonic for the gin. Two essential items for our style of sailing.
I have sailed in this area for ten years and each year plan to sail to another group of islands. Every year I sail to Turkey which has some beautiful sailing areas especially along the south coast. The worst part is arriving and departing from Turkey where bureaucracy reigns supreme. This has been further complicated by the fact that, because of the stupidity of an English immigration officer insisting that some high Turkish official must buy an entry visa, all English visitors must now pay £5 upon entry - but there is the rub - it has to be an English £5 note in mint condition.
Living in Sweden, this presented me with quite a problem which was only resolved by my visiting a bank to change my kroner for pounds! What’s the problem, you say. Well, the customs are at the entrance to the marina, the marina office is half a mile away, and the bank and the harbourmaster and the doctor are a mile further on. They have it so organised that you have to go to each one in turn and return for another stamp each time. If you have a dinghy with a reliable motor it makes it a lot easier as you can cut across the harbour, but once you know and are prepared for it, it is well worth the effort. Turkey is a beautiful land although very primitive and it’s good to have a toilet on booard in some places. Speaking of which, we always have a shower at night by putting a couple of 20 litre water cans in the sun during the day and then with a longshaft bilge pump with a hose a nd spray nozzle down through the heads skylight, and a cry of "Pump", we all get clean.
Well, I hope this letter may encourage others to visit the Aegean before it’s completely saturated by flotilla fleets. But there are still plenty of unspoilt islands which they don’t get to.
Best wishes,
Vyvyan Bennett
Dear Mr Pack
Enclosed is your complimentary copy of the second edition of the DRAG DEVICE DATA BASE. Rudy Kirse, who owns an Iroquois 30 (Banana Split), suggested that I send it to you, and I certainly hope that you will enjoy reading the work. It took many years to put together.
Mr Kirse has one of our 12ft. diameter parachute see anchors on the boat and had occasion to use it in a gale off Bermuda. A copy of his feedback is attached for your reference, also, as well as other recent feedback (haven’t had time to incorporate these into the book yet).
Our chutes have a pretty good track record worldwide, especially in association with multihulls. If members of your Association wish to equip their boats with chutes they can purchase from my own company directly (without paying a middle man). Our large plant in San Diego can produce and ship these units by Parcel Post, Air, Federal Express, or by container ship on larger orders (more economical). A 20% discount is offered if more than ten (10) of your members wish to purchase chutes at the same time.
The 12ft. diameter FORCE 10 is well suited to the Iroquois 30. We now have a 15ft. diameter FASTNET chute, also. (When in doubt ALWAYS pick a larger parachute).
Fair winds and following seas
Victor Shane,
Para-Anchors International
Dear Ken
I have found an additional storage space in the galley. I cut an access hole through the sink splashboard moulding to re-bed the stanchion. I cut an oval hole using the storage access holes in the settee back as a guide. I fibreglassed a floor for the storage area. I use it to store coffee, tea, spices, etc. The hole is in the far right area of the splashboard, below the stanchion and behind the centreboard case.
The last hole I dug, having seen it on Chiquita V earlier, was under the double cabin doors on the cabin floor side. It enabled me to run cables easily, and store the Autohelm 2000 and the winch handles.
We are still basing Tzatzke in Green Turtle Cay and Hopetown Harbour in the Abacos Bahamas for 6 - 8 months from February through to August or October.
Siincerely,
Marc Sheridan, Tzatzke
Dear Ken
For the last couple of years I’ve been annoyed by various small leaks in the window frame of our Mk IIa "Antares of Ashton". I felt rather unsure about undoing all those screws and pushing out the windows in case I should find something nasty. However the leaks got worse so I took up tools and gingerly removed one of the screws then punched out the blind bush which forms the inner fixing. Horrors! The bush had completely corroded away except for the head, the screw had been held in by the mastic. I tried another - same thing; and another, this time I got a complete bush. It would appear that the bushes are chromed brass and, over the 21 years of their life have corroded away to nothing or have de-zincified and become very brittle.
I tried all over to got replacement bushes and eventually came across a horde at Alladins Cave in Bursledon: he had a one off lot of 106 in stainless, of which I bought 106. (Sorry everybody. He has still got hundreds of chromed brass ones).
Back to Antares with lots of mastic, this time removing all the screws, which came out relatively easily. The inner trims came off easily. Then, after about an hour of gentle prising with a stout knife, thin screwdrivers for wedges and lots of patience, the window frame came free from the cabin side. The original mastic had been a thin rubbery tape, the remains of which had to be scraped from the hull and window frame.
The frames themselves were in excellent condition with nosign of corrosion and only a little pitting on the inner trim. Of the original bushes about 10 out of the 33 were badly corroded, others were so brittle that they cracked when levering them out of the trim. I junked the lot, not wishing to trust he remaining few which were whole.
A good splodge of mastic around the frame and the window was gently replaced. A friend held the inner trim and new bushes in place, as I replaced the screws from the outside, tightening just enough to get the mastic to exude around the frame. Leave it for 24 hours so that the mastic cures. Then another tighten down all round to, hopefully make a good waterproof seal which will last for another 20 years.
The forward windows are now done, I’ve got to pluck up some more courage and find another horde of bushes before I attempt the big ones on the cabin sides. If anybody knows of a suppler of stainless bushes (or even the correct technical name for them) I’d be pleased to hear from you.
Good wishes for the coming season, lets hope it’s a scorcher.
Alan Holmes, Antares of Ashton
